T picked us up the next day as promised at 8am – we just had
time for a quick breakfast before we left. Today was going to be the big day:
Angkor Wat and Bayon, plus a wander around the rest of Angkor Thom.
The journey to Angkor Wat was quite pleasant in the cooler
morning air. Angkor Wat, generally regarded as the largest religious structure
in the world, was built by Suryavarman II between 1112-52 and is the highlight
of the Angkorian period architecture. The Angkorian period lasted from
802-1432, and during this time the whole complex of Angkor temples were built,
dependent on the penchants of the Cambodian king of the time. It is thought
that Angkor Wat was built as a funerary temple for Suryavarman II, and also to
honour the Hindu deity Vishnu (Cambodian kings have a history encompassing both
Buddhist and Hindu beliefs).
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat is an enormous complex held within a moat,
forming a rectangle 1.5km by 1.3km. This makes a visit a good few hours long!
When you enter, crossing the moat at the entrance, you encounter an enormous
sandstone causeway that delves into the centre of the complex. Either side are
two libraries, which were quiet, peaceful havens from the crowds of visitors.
Within the moat, there is also an outer wall closing a circuit around the area.
Once you reach the centre of the complex you find the entrance to the temple
itself, but the view is at its most atmospheric from the entrance by the moat,
as you get to see the familiar structure in landscape view.
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat - Outer Corridor, the Walls Covered in Bas-reliefs
The temple itself is fascinating, with bas-reliefs
surrounding the outside telling epic stories, including the legendary ‘Churning
of the Ocean of Milk’ depicting a grand battle between good and evil (gods and
demons) with some assistance from Vishnu et
al. The one I found most interesting was the bas-relief showing Heaven and
Hell, with 37 heavens and 32 hells. Here’s hoping that means the heavens won
out! These bas-reliefs were all completed in either the 12th century,
or added in the 16th century when monks occupied Angkor following the
sacking of Angkor by the Thais. This explains why Angkor Wat is so well
preserved compared to the other temples too – there was a constant presence at
Angkor Wat, mainly sue to Buddhist monks, so that even when all the other
temples had been abandoned and the seat of power had moved to Phnom Penh, the
buildings were still in use. Many of the other temples, notably Ta Prohm and Ta
Nei, were left unprotected, neglected, and exposed to the ravages of the
jungle.
Where's Wally???
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
We spent hours wandering within the temple enclosure,
admiring the classic Angkorian structures and climbing to the top of the
central tower. Eventually though we had to move on, so T took us to Bayon, the
other famous temple at Angkor.
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Singing Within Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat - Bas-relief
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Bayon is distinguished by the many faces adorning the towers
and walls, and was a later addition to the temples here, built during the reign
of Jayavarman VII (1181-1219). It is the centrepiece of Angkor Thom, a 10km
square city surrounded by a city wall and a moat. It apparently has 216 smiling
faces on its 54 towers, and although it seems a bit jumbled when you enter the
first layer of the building, as you rise to the second and third floors it
becomes more orderly, and infinitely more charming, as the faces of
Avalokiteshvara (a Buddhist image this time) smile down at you from every
corner.
Bayon
Bayon
Bayon
Bayon
Bayon
Bayon
Bayon
Baphuon
A few minutes’ walk from Bayon we found Baphuon, another
grand temple with a 200m sandstone walkway raised on sturdy pillars. The
central tower was quite high but worth the climb, as it was quieter than Bayon
and there was a lovely view across Angkor Thom and into the surrounding
wilderness. There was an excellent display explaining the restoration works in
progress at Baphuon – apparently the temple had been taken apart for
restoration purposes before the advent of the Khmer Rouge, but during their
reign of terror all records of the dismantling of the temple had been lost, and
so putting it all back together in the right places has proven to be a puzzle
of a challenge!
Baphuon
Baphuon
Angkor Thom
We spent the dying hours of the afternoon walking around
Angkor Thom, wandering along the Terrace of Elephants and the Terrace of the
Leper King, and clambering into small old ruins opposite the Royal Palace,
which was also worth a wander, with its beautiful pools and leafy shade (though
little remains of its former grandeur).
Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom
Seeing all the key sights at Angkor in one day had been a
tiring adventure, so we headed back to the hostel for a night in updating the
blog in our stuffy air con-less room, after an obligatory tasty dinner at our
nameless restaurant. Sadly, it was time to say goodbye to T – he’d been a great
companion for our two days, but for our third day we’d decided to do some
walking and we’d only need a tuk-tuk there and back… so we thought we’d find a
tuk-tuk in the morning whenever we woke up - we might need some extra sleep first!
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